Safe Home Remedies For Your Pet - *READ DISCLAIMER*

A pretty reasonable question that I know most of us have asked ourselves at one time or another is: if I was having a mild allergic reaction, I wouldn’t have to go to the doctor, so do I need to every time my dog or cat has something like that happen?

Phrased another way: are there any general remedies that I can administer myself for my pet before going into the vet?

The simple answer is: yes, of course!

*DISCLAIMER*: But I would caution you, that since we can’t communicate with our animals quite the same as we can with people, if you have any doubts at all, you should still consult with your veterinarian. Your vet has spent a lot of time developing the skills to pick up on things in our non-communicating patients, so we are there to help when you’re not quite sure! When in doubt: have it checked out!

In a second we will get to some options that you can often consider in certain situations when you’re confident a vet visit might not be necessary! But first, a quick note on dosing medications:

IMPORTANT: You must make sure to weigh your pet in order to get the proper dose. If you only know your pets weight in pounds: in order to get the weight in kilograms, simply divide the weight in pounds by 2.2 and this will give you the weight in kg!

You wanna give me what? Just because I ate that bumble bee?!

Diphenhydramine (aka: Benadryl) – both for dogs and cats:

            Dose: 2-4 milligrams per kilogram as often as every 8 hours (3 times per day)

            Reasons for its use: Mild relaxation, Mild allergic reactions (ie: bug bites or stings, itching,               hives)

            Explanation: this medication is quite safe to use, with the main possible side effect being               drowsiness. Drowsiness also happens to be one of the reasons some people use this                       medication for their pets.  In some cases, the slight sedation that results from a dose of                 diphenhydramine is enough to help them relax in the car if they tend to be anxious!

Dimenhydrinate (aka: Gravol) – for both dogs and cats:

            Dose: 4-8 milligrams per kilogram as often as every 8 hours (3 times per day)

            Reasons for its use: Mild relaxation, motion sickness/nausea (ie: for long car rides)

            Explanation: this medication is quite safe to use, with the main possible side effect being               drowsiness. This, again, is a medication that people will sometimes use just for the                           sedative effects to help make car rides and stressful situations more tolerable. It has the                 added benefit of being an anti-nauseant, which can be helpful if that is playing into an                   anxiety related to car and/or boat rides.

Triple Antibiotic Ointment (aka: Polysporin ointment) – for both dogs and cats:

            Dose/Reasons: ointment can be spread on well cleaned superficial wounds

            Explanation: triple antibiotic ointment should never be used as the mainstay for a serious               wound or injury to your pet, but it can serve a small purpose with mild superficial injuries.               Much like for ourselves, if your pet has a small superficial wound, the most important thing             to do is to keep it very clean (by rinsing with water and a gentle soap), and triple                             antibiotic ointment can then be spread on the clean wound in order to help it heal. These               ointments do not tend to rapidly change the healing process, but do also serve as                           somewhat of a barrier to debris getting into the wound. They also do not pose major risks             if your pet happens to try to lick them off.

Famotidine (aka: Pepcid) – for both dogs and cats:

           Dose: 0.5 – 1 mg/kg every 12 – 24 hours, rounding to nearest 5 mg amount (ie: it is okay to              give 5 mg to your average sized cat even if the calculated dose is 4 mg)

           Reasons for its use: famotidine is an antacid that can benefit animals that have an issue                  with acid reflux

           Explanation: this medication is NOT where you should turn if you have a pet that is all of a              sudden vomiting regularly, or several times in a day, etc. However, it can be very beneficial              for dogs that tend to get sick in the morning because of having an empty stomach                          overnight, or when they are recovering from a bout with a gastrointestinal drug. For this                medication, it is probably still best to consult with your veterinarian before starting it, but              it can be very helpful in some cases where mild acid reflux is the only culprit for signs your            pet may be experiencing J

Glucosamine/Chondroitin/MSM – for both dogs and cats:

            Dose: approximately 15 mg/mg of the CHONDROITIN component (the amounts of the                   other medications mixed in are okay as long as the chondroitin is dosed correctly) – given             once daily

            Reasons for its use: to promote joint health and help prevent progression of already                       present joint disease

            Explanation: this remedy is more of a supplement than a medication, but can make a very             big difference for animals in terms of preventing and easing joint discomfort.  Of course it             is not always adequate when joint disease has progressed, but it is not harmful to your pet             and can be a great way to help them be comfortable for longer! It is safe to use, and can               be purchased from a veterinarian, at a regular pharmacy, and at some reputable pet stores             as well. If your pet does not like pills, it can be obtained through your veterinarian as a                   powder or liquid as well!

Excellent, I'll just stay right here then.

That is a little list of some things you can do for your pets that often won’t require bringing them into a clinic if the issues are minor, but as mentioned before, it is VERY important that if you have any doubts at all in your mind you should still contact your vet! Oftentimes, your questions can be answered by the techs and receptionists working at the clinic, so the option to call is ALWAYS there!

Please trust us that we aren’t trying to make things difficult for you by suggesting a visit with your vet when it comes to giving them medications, as their body systems don’t work the same as ours so we are just trying to make sure that we are keeping them safe! It will always be easier (and less expensive) to have proper assessment and treatment than it will be to deal with the consequences of giving them something they shouldn’t receive!

One of the biggest examples of this is pain medication – NEVER administer a pain medication of any type to your pet without consulting with a veterinarian! They do not process many of these medications the same way that we do, and this can result in very severe illness, and even death.

Please don’t hesitate to give us, or your own vet, a call if you have any questions at all about any of these options, or others you have come across. We are happy to help educate people so that they can take the very best care of their pets possible!

The top 10 things you want to know but won't ask your vet!

Hi Guys! Today I want to dip into something that makes everyone a little uncomfortable on both sides of the table. As someone who has been a client of a vet clinic for 5 years before going into the field, there were a lot of questions I had that I didn’t really want to ask, but felt the answers would be important. Now that I am also on the other side of this equation, I say to you all: if you have a question… ASK US! There are no stupid questions, there are no offensive questions, and we are more than happy to answer any question you may have! (About your animal that is 😉 )

All that being said, send us a message or leave a comment on our Facebook post on this page letting us know if you have any other questions 😊

Without any more rambling: The top 10 questions I feel need to be answered!

 Q: Why did you muzzle my dog?

 A: This question, like many I will list, has many answers. If I were to sum it up, it is because chances are your dog is scared and we want to minimize (at least) 3 things: 1. The chances of them hurting themselves 2. The chances of them reacting and hurting us or, god forbid, you, and 3. The handling time.

Chances are, if your dog is reactive, a muzzle may be put on from the very start to make the entire process faster and more efficient. Putting a muzzle on your dog is actually more likely to make them less stressed, since the amount of time they will have to be restrained will be lessened. The most important thing to remember is that we don’t think that your dog is mean. We just want the best possible outcome from a situation. When people are scared they can communicate this through speaking to one another. We will employ fight or flight in a situation where we are afraid. You have to think of your dog in the same way… some will run away when facing what they perceive as a threat, and some will fight. It is nothing more than a defence mechanism! A muzzle can help prevent accidents from happening! 😊

*If you have a particularly fractious dog, please let your vet know beforehand to minimize restraint time 😊

Q: Why did you take my pet out of the exam room?

A: If the vet or tech takes your animal out of the exam room, they usually do it either because they require assistance, or the procedure is more efficiently performed in a specific setting (ie. Bloodwork, urine collection, x-rays, anal gland expression). Sometimes a pet may feel calmed by the presence of their owner, but occasionally if their owner is nervous they may feed on this anxiety and feel more nervous themselves, and this is another reason being in a different room can sometimes reduce stress for your pet. Always ask your vet or tech, and they will happily fill you in on anything you miss while in the exam room.

Q: Why did you get the tech to hold my pet?

A: Once again, a couple of reasons. The top reason being that techs and assistants are trained to restrain your pet properly, ensuring once again that any procedure is done safely (for your pet and for us) and in a timely fashion! On occasion there are pets who are better being held by their owners, but usually having the trained professional do the holding is the best idea to keep everyone safe and to keep handling and restraint to a minimum. 😊

Q: My pet cries when they get their vaccines, are they in pain?

A: About as much pain as you would be in if you were being vaccinated, but weren’t aware of the situation. If I’m being honest, there is the small pin-prick you would feel, but very, very few pets actually react to being “poked”! Most of the complaining your pet does when getting vaccinated or having anything done for that matter is because of being restrained. Animals like to be in control, so when that is taken away from them in the form of restraint… they are primarily reacting to that!

Q: Is the restraint painful?

A: No! Definitely not, although the way some animals (BOTH of my cats included) react to restraint makes it look like torture for some of them. As previously mentioned, we are trained to hold them in a comfortable yet immobilizing position. We are definitely not hurting your pet no matter what they try to tell you! 😉

Q: When I call in, why do I have to request a callback to speak to a doctor?

A: I know this is common practice at most clinics, and as a cat mom for 5 years before being in this field I could NEVER understand why I had to wait to talk to my kitty’s doctor! Now that I am in the field, I see why other people answer the phone haha! At any given moment your vet is taking care of another animal. They may be in appointments or surgery, corresponding with another client, filling out paperwork for another patient, doing research on a difficult case (the list goes on) but either way, if they dropped everything every time someone wanted to talk to them, they wouldn’t get anything done! This is in no way to say that your call is not of importance to them. On the contrary! They want to be able to focus properly when they speak with you and give you the same attention they are giving to those other things keeping them busy! But chances are, if your situation is controlled enough to be handled in a phone call, someone else’s problem in the clinic may be more time sensitive. Please try to bear with the veterinarians, they will get back to you. 😊

Q: Can I trust the advice of people at the front desk?

A: Absolutely.

I was just going to leave it at that, but I will elaborate. Anyone in this field is educated enough and understands the medicine enough that if they don’t know the answer to something, they will find someone that does. They will never give you a guess, they will ensure that you are comfortable with the information you are given. Always trust those who man the front desk!

Q: My friend said to try _____, should I?

A: Not to discredit your friend, because most people who own pets are very knowledgeable of their requirements, but you should always contact your vet before trying anything your friend recommends or you find on the internet. ESPECIALLY in regards to medications! There are so many differences between people and animals! Make sure to consult the right doctors!

Q: Why did you scruff/use gloves while handling my cat?

A: In most cases, not all, cats can have a pretty big opinion when it comes to being handled at the vet. If your kitty is particularly fractious, gloves may be used to prevent those little kitty claws from making purchase in a lovely tech’s arms or legs, and to help prevent kitty from making the great escape! Cats are more likely to lash out when not in their own environment than dogs, and being much smaller and squirmier, they are better at escaping! Gloves make sure they stay still by preventing the knee jerk reaction to let go when you get a bit of a clip with a claw! A scruff is rarely used, but it is just a tactic to immobilize your kitty (often to just safely reposition them) and make the handling time minimal! It is not done in a way that is painful or harmful to them at all, and only when necessary. We cannot stress enough how much of a difference it makes to cats for handling time to be as short as possible (in most cases).

*If you have a particularly fractious cat, please let your vet know beforehand to minimize restraint time and so they can be prepared beforehand

Q: Are there natural alternatives to vet grade flea prevention?

A: Ah, I am really sorry guys but no, there are not. It has been researched extensively, and there is no natural alternative that is guaranteed to be effective. The flea and tick preventatives we have are tried and tested and the companies guarantee their effectiveness. You have to be careful buying preventatives from a pet store or Walmart, as they are not regulated and many can be toxic to cats and children. Please seek veterinary help for flea and tick prevention!

Okay that is all for today guys! Like I said, let me know if you have any questions of your own! I would love to do a little Q&A on here or maybe live on the road some day! Stay tuned! As always, have a wonderful day!

- Megan

Bringing Home a Baby to Your Pets

“Good luck still celebrating Scruffy’s birthday once you have a baby”

Hello fellow mothers and animal lovers!

Did everyone tell you that your dog or cat would take a back seat once you have a baby? 

How about everyone asking “Where’s Scruffy in this picture?” for ages after you welcome your sweet new addition? (Was I supposed to have Scruffy with me when we were at the mall getting Santa pictures?!)

Or perhaps people have snickered at you when you compare your experiences raising a puppy with raising your baby? (Seriously! There are lots of parallels!)

These are all rights of passage for people who are crazy for (read: who love and adore) their animals, but also love and adore their human babies. You don’t have to choose, but just as you have to readjust when you go from one child to more than one child, there certainly are some adjustments and some precautions that should be addressed when you are bringing a baby home to your fur babies.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but it is a good place to start.

Our Baby Announcement from my daughter Maria!

1.     Establish a Plan

Once you know you are expecting, it is a great idea to have a plan for bringing your little one to meet your pets when coming home from the hospital.  There is so much going on and going through your head once you have this new little life to look out for, so knowing ahead of time the plan of attack will greatly ease your own stress which will translate to your pet also feeling less stress.  The plan could involve one parent taking home some things that smell like the baby ahead of time so that they meet the scent before the meet the baby. It could also involve another friend or family member taking your furry companion for a couple of days so that you have some time to adjust to being home and your pet doesn’t join the mix until you have your ducks in a straighter row. 

2.     Prepare Your Pet

A new baby in the house means more noise, more furniture and “stuff”, and less time for your attention.  The more of this that you can expose your pets to before the real baby is there, the better. It sounds silly, but even try playing YouTube videos of screaming babies on loop from time to time, or causing a big commotion in a normally quiet house so that this is less unfamiliar to your pets for the real deal. Many a childless evening in my house before my baby girl was born there were screaming YouTube babies blaring through the halls!  Make sure to have the baby’s things dispersed throughout the home so your pets have time to adjust to this change as well.  And finally, I am not suggesting that you should try to ignore your pet to prepare them for the sharing of attention, but it is a good thing to promote devoted attention and divided attention. What I mean by this is, of course, having plenty of time where you lavish your pets with the normal attention they are used to (and make sure to devote some time to this once the baby arrives as well), but also. help them establish ways to cope with your attention being divided.  This could be by getting them used to and happy with their kennel or crate again by giving them treats or a peanut butter Kong, etc. so that they look forward to going in there. It could also be by simply having a special treat or toy that you give them at a certain time, and taking that time to go do something separate from them. This way if you notice you are unable to give them focus for a stretch of time due to your new baby, they have a routine they are already familiar and happy with for when you are preoccupied.  This treat or toy should be reserved for these situations only to strengthen the positive association as much as possible. The stark contrast of you being 100% theirs to much less than that can be a bit easier to handle with some previously established coping mechanisms. 

3.     Do not force an introduction

However you decide to time the introduction, I do recommend exposing your pets to the smell of your baby ahead of time (with a sleeper or a blanket they have used at the hospital perhaps).  This will make the new smell a little less surprising when it is attached to your baby. When you do bring your baby home, it is important not to be forceful in presenting him or her to your pets. Your pets should be given as much time as they want before your baby is introduced and you should be in complete control of the introduction. It is important from the very beginning to establish that they cannot freely engage with your baby without your permission.  Your pets gauge a lot from scent, so allowing them to sniff is perfectly acceptable, but you should always be in a position to remove your baby from the situation and you should teach your pet that when you instruct them to disengage, they are to obey. 

Do I have to wear these glasses just because you're educating me?

4.     Do your best to give your pets attention

I truly do know from my own personal experience that it is difficult to impossible to maintain the level of focus on your pets that you had before you had a baby, and all that you can do is try your absolute best. Some strategies I can recommend are: having you or your partner commit to a certain length walk or playtime daily, and Make. It. Happen.  While one of you is tending to the baby, the other can be devoting some time to the pets. Even if all you can manage is 15 minutes, it will still make a difference.  Another one is: think of activities that you can do with both your pet and your babies (more applicable to dogs). For example: going on family walks or to the beach, or on camping trips.  And finally: give both your baby and your pet attention by working on training your pets on how to interact with your baby. Most pets enjoy being engaged in training sessions (could it be the treats??), and it will help establish a positive association between your pets and your new little one.

5.     Start teaching your baby how to treat your pets ASAP

This one is interesting! You would be very surprised at how early instructing your child on animal interaction can have an effect.  It seems like when you are the one that has to move their hands to touch an animal that it wouldn’t make a difference, but using the word “gentle” and very gently stroking your pets with your baby’s hand can start to ingrain in them the idea that you should be gentle when touching an animal. Lots (most? all??) of babies develop a tendency to do some swatting as they turn into toddlers, and this habit is easily directed towards unsuspecting animals if they are around your baby a lot, and this can obviously create dangerous situations.  Your baby will understand the instruction of “gentle” and be more likely to comply quickly if they have had this displayed and taught from a very young age.  Leading by example is also important as well, of course J

6.     MOST IMPORTANT: NEVER – EVER – EVER – TRUST YOUR DOG WITH YOUR BABY

I am focusing more on dogs here, although I do feel the same applies to cats. It just cannot be stressed too much with dogs. There is no such thing as a dog that should be trusted alone with a baby. I don’t just mean: “Any dog can have an unexpected reaction to a situation”, although I will come back to that. I also mean that your perfectly lovely dog, who does not break from their loyal gentle self, can STILL harm (or worse) your baby without meaning to do so. From laying on them, to stepping on them, to trying to steal the baby’s blanket and pulling them out of their basinet, there are many ways that a dog who never shows any signs of aggression or prey drive can still harm your child.  In regards to the issue of harm via unexpected aggression or prey drive, it really is true that this could happen with any beloved family dog, completely irrelevant of breed or temperament.  It comes down to instincts and natural reactions. It doesn’t mean your dog is mean or generally dangerous or anything like that, it is merely that the consequences can be too severe to take any chances in regards to this.  The lives of our children, and our animals, are far too precious to leave anything at all to chance. DO NOT EVER TRUST YOUR DOG ALONE WITH YOUR BABY.

7.     Try to avoid all of your baby-pet interactions being in the form of “No”

This can actually be pretty tough!  When you are trying to establish boundaries for your baby and your pet, and you are short on time and patience, it is easy to end up constantly having to say “No” to your pet. Be sure to bring the focus back to rewarding your pet for good behaviour as much as possible, and to promote behaviours that you want to continue (like giving your pet lots of attention and maybe some treats when they calmly lay by your feet when you’re sitting on the couch with your baby).

I would like to finish off by touching on the beautiful thing it can be to raise your child with beloved family pets in the mix That is why these tips, tricks, and precautions are so important J I have had the good fortune to see so many of these special bonds through working as a veterinarian, and also have felt the warmth and comfort of a special kitty by my side my whole childhood.

It has been such a wonderful and fun thing to watch my baby girl grow close with our dog Mary (who she originally called “Maymay”), and gently lay her head on her saying “awwww, Mary”. The unconditional, undying, never faltering love that we feel from our pets is life changing, I love watching it unfold for my baby girl! Everything that we can do to help promote the fostering of that bond opens our children up to a richer life, as the human-animal bond is like no other!

Africa Special Case #2-Stompie the Honey Badger!

Stompie is a baby honey badger that was one of the first babies bred at the rehab! Stoffel, the famous honey badger at the rehab was given a mate with hopes that it would prevent him from continually trying to escape. Athena the honey badger gave birth to Stompie at the rehab in the early spring of 2016. It was Athena’s first known baby, and she was a very inexperienced mother. Stompie got his name from his “stumpy” tail. The rehab thinks that in trying to sever Stompie’s umbilical cord, Athena may have accidentally bitten off his tail. He also ended up with a pretty bad infection around his eyes and mouth, causing him some pain when he ate.

Such a sweet little face

He was removed from his mother and brought into the care of the girls in the rehab, who fed him and kept his infection clear. He thrived under the care of the rehab workers, and when I arrived he was a little over 6 months old! I was lucky enough to be tasked with his care for a little less than two months while I was there. Stompie was on my rotation starting at 5:30am with several feedings through the day. He was still on milk for a few meals a day along with chicks 2x a day. He pooped a LOT and I spent countless time cleaning up gross honey badger poos in his enclosure hahaha.

All the technical gross stuff isn’t as fun as telling you all about Stompie himself! Stompie is the sweetest little soul. He was so smart (honey badgers are geniuses)! He loved going for walks, and we often took him into the back field and put honey on trees for him to climb up and lick off. He loved being roly-poly, and laying on his back for belly rubs. There was one volunteer I worked with for a little while who built these mobiles to hang in his enclosure and he loved playing with those as well! His playing style was like a kitten, he would chase the rake when I was cleaning his enclosure, and chase a string with a feather on it around on the ground.  If someone walked by his enclosure and didn’t pay attention to him he would make little noises until you rubbed his nose through the fencing.

Stompie and Ntaba

Toward the end of my stay, Stompie made an unlikely friend with the resident rhino orphan, Ntaba. He scratched Ntaba’s legs (if you know a little about rhinos, you may know that they are always looking for something to scratch themselves on) and so the two became the best of friends. It was an accidental meeting with the best possible result. You would not be likely to see a rhino and a honey badger as best friends in the wild!

Stompie made my love for animals with a wild side grow. He was so sweet and kind, and was quite honestly one of the most interesting (and stinky) animals on the rehab. He had amazing people to bring him up, and I was so lucky to spend the small amount of time I did with him! If you’re interested, you can go on YouTube and search “Stoffel the honey badger” and get to know a little bit about honey badgers, Stompie’s father and Moholoholo rehab! 

Thanks for reading guys, I hope you’re enjoying my Africa series!

-Megan

Stompie selfie!

Dogs and Exercise - Are they getting enough? Are they getting too much?

Dogs and their needs, am I right?

When it comes to exercising dogs there are so many right answers, and that is the problem!

Every dog is different, and this has to do with several factors: breed temperaments, environment, personality, companions, the list goes on. Tailoring a dog’s physical activity schedule is a trying task, especially if you have several dogs of the same breed, different breeds, or just one mixed breed dog!

Because of how different all dogs are, there is no cut and dry method to making sure they get the right amount and kind of exercise. This is something that you and your dog will have to figure out together! Let’s start with puppies!

Puppies almost always have an abundance of energy. Finding the right exercise for your puppy is important not only for the health of your dog, but for your own sanity! Having a rambunctious puppy around the house can be incredibly hard on the patience of even the most patient owners. Tiring out a puppy mentally is just as important as tiring them out physically. Often a puppy can run and run and run without a second thought, but they will do better with mental stimulation. They can wear out their body but if they’re physically worn out and not mentally, this can result in restlessness or “unrestful resting.” In some cases this can lead to nail chewing, licking paws, wandering, destruction of property, and other behavioural issues. Making sure to try more than just walking or running your dog is a very helpful tool to prevent these behaviours! Teaching a puppy to fetch is a wonderful place to start. Depending on the breed, you may want to introduce them to tracking, obedience or agility. Puppy classes are highly recommended, as well as “doggy daycare”, as this will give your puppy a chance to get used to other dogs besides their litter mates, and puppy classes will give you a chance to connect with your puppy in ways you may not be able to without coaching!

Sharing is caring

Big dog exercise vs small dog exercise: Small dogs require different kinds of exercise than big dogs, but again, this is often dictated by breed. Some small dogs, like certain terriers, love a fetch game, whereas breeds like Maltese and Lhasa Apso may prefer a walk over rough running. Bigger dogs can also have preferences. For instance, Greyhounds like light walks or fast sprints, not jogging. Giant breeds like Danes, Newfoundland dogs, and St. Bernards may prefer walks, and then something lower impact like swimming, to running, as it can be hard on their joints.

How much exercise is too much exercise? I know there are tons of dogs out there that would chase a ball until they collapsed! The best thing to do for an over-active dog is make sure the exercises they enjoy are both mentally and physically stimulating. For instance, if you can’t get your dog into something like tracking or agility, you can spice up your fetching! Try not throwing the ball until they have completed a trick! They can learn tricks this way as well, and the ball is a very good source of positive reinforcement. Eventually your pup may learn that they have to sit or shake to have the ball thrown, and that is when you can add in a second trick - you see where I’m going with this? Making your pup think it through every time they want the ball makes them as mentally tired as physically. Now to actually answer that question! It may be hard to notice if your pup is tired, but here are some of the signs you may not notice as being signals for tiredness:

- Rolling around instead of engaging.

-Panting +/- looking for water

- Unusual barking

- Losing interest

- Being “sooky” or cuddling up to you

- Getting nippy

- Being cranky

Young dogs in their “teenage years” are more at risk of over-tiring themselves, and you may have to help them learn their limits. Make sure that their exercise is plentiful, but try to realize when any of these signs are present, and make them take a break.

Making sure that dogs use their inside time as a restful time is important in helping them understand that outside time is play time and inside time is re-coup time. If you can learn to crate your pup inside, it can help make their rest time… well… restful. Teaching a dog that after playtime it is rest time is one of the best ways to make a crate a happy place. Now, I obviously don’t mean that your pup should be crated all the time when they’re inside, but what I do mean is that, if your pup has a tendency to stay wound up even after an eventful playtime, putting them in a kennel to wind down can be so helpful for their recovery! Having some fresh water and a snack in their kennel can be a great treat for them after a good run or game of fetch.

All in all I guess what I’m saying is each dog is different, and you will have to work with your pup to find out what works best with you both. I hope this sheds some light on any questions you might have had in regards to dogs and their activity!